Okuda
The old documentary "Two Japanese Chefs" captured snippets of the lives of chefs Seiji Yamamoto of Ryugin and Tooru Okuda of Ginza Okuda. The two chefs knew each other from an early age, working together in the same restaurant as an apprentice and a driver, respectively. Both were full of culinary dreams, studying various books and often discussing late into the night. Two decades later, each had their own Michelin three-star restaurant.
What is more poignant is that, nearly 15 years since the release of the documentary, both of these Michelin three-star restaurants have lost their spirit. Ryugin has become a business kaiseki restaurant, and Okuda has become a tourist kaiseki spot.
Chef Yamamoto, who in the documentary said, "Customers come from far away with expectations, and if we serve them this, they will not forgive us," ended up making dishes that customers would not forgive.
And Chef Okuda, who always saw Yamamoto as a respected elder brother, a crucial rival, and the most important customer, and said, "Although I don't have the same talent and creativity as you, I have my own style," eventually lost his fighting spirit.
The dishes at Ginza Okuda are not too difficult to eat, but they are not very impressive either; they are mediocre and perfunctory, with structure but lacking soul. This mediocrity is likely not due to a lack of skill but rather a lack of will. In 2015, Okuda was downgraded to two stars and has remained there since, making it one of the easier Michelin kaiseki restaurants to book in Tokyo, gradually turning into a tourist spot.
Looking back at the documentary from the current perspective, one realizes: the only thing we need to conquer is time. The ambition of the two chefs from over a decade ago now seems sigh-inducing. Having ideals when you're young is not difficult, maintaining them into middle age is more admirable. Being a star chef for three to five years is not hard, but to be one for a lifetime is truly remarkable. Even with writing, it's not difficult to persist for three to five years. If you persist long enough to outlast your contemporaries, you can become the "last master" – in reality, there is no such thing as a rival. The existence of rivals is just to make us feel less lonely in the journey against time. However, loneliness will eventually become the norm.
