Le Pre Catelan
Le Pre Catelan, an estate nestled in a forest, presents a grand scene. Being there is like a journey back to the zenith of European capitalism a century or two ago. Having visited most of the Michelin three-star establishments in Paris, this place has captured my heart the most.
Completed in the mid-19th century, the mansion boasts a Napoleonic III architectural style, with verdant greenery visible through its windows and opulence within its walls. Its splendor is distinct from the palatial gilt and grandeur; it's more akin to a tastefully strict noble's woodland retreat, evoking scenes right out of a Hercule Poirot mystery.
The high ceilings are exceptional, the crystal chandeliers dignified but not ostentatious, and the colors—a fusion of white plates and tablecloths, silver candlesticks, golden candlelight, and dark gold curtains—meld harmoniously. Despite its Western mansion aesthetic, there's an abundance of Chinese porcelain, even a Chinese screen at the entrance. The use of Chinese elements here isn't about blending cultures but reflects a period when Western society, at its most grandiose, was infatuated with and considerate of Eastern culture and aesthetics. The layered details give an illusion of time standing still within these walls, despite the passage of years and history outside.
The scenery at Catelan isn't limited to its surroundings. The servers, almost uniformly men with a butler's demeanor, offer guests the feeling of being served by a long-standing family manservant, complete with attentive service, kind expressions, and the occasional humorous quip. More than a restaurant, Catelan conjures an imaginary space.
Chef Frederic Anton, a disciple of Robuchon, served as the main chef at Robuchon's restaurant until 1996, and opened Catelan the following year. Two years after its debut, it earned two Michelin stars, and a decade later, three, which it maintains to this day. The restaurant is now part of the Renault group. Chef Frederic, nearly three decades since branching out from Robuchon, still pays homage to his mentor at the start of his menu. The Robuchon influence is evident in the details of the amuse-bouche—a legacy of mentorship rarely seen in today's market.
Dining in such a place is relaxing from the moment one is seated. When diners are at ease, the restaurant's margin for error widens. For me, as long as the dishes aren't extremely unpalatable, I'm disinclined to criticize; as long as they exceed a baseline of quality, I'm generous with praise. While Catelan's dishes may not be stunningly innovative or strictly traditional French (one dish draws inspiration from the Greater Bay Area, another from Japan), each is quite good, conveying the chef's intended story and message, sometimes eliciting a knowing smile, other times deeply moving.
The meal begins with a crisp, long puff pastry stick accompanied by sourdough bread and house-made butter. The pre-meal snack is a light cream, whipped airy, with pickled herring hidden underneath. The butter ball is neatly circled by small dots—olive oil alternating with sauce—revealing a distinctly Robuchon style and announcing the chef's lineage.
The first course, "Tomato," features warm, seedless, fiberless tomatoes that melt in the mouth, complemented by a hint of mint leaf, refreshing green sauce that doesn't overpower, and a touch of salt.
The second course, "Marseille Fish Soup," is a concentrated version of the classic soup, enhanced with toasted almonds to amplify the toasted aroma, and a subtle hint of vanilla. However, due to the soup's intense reduction, it was a bit too salty for my taste.
The third course, "Meat Caviar," pairs aspic with caviar and a hint of foam—visually deceptive as the foam is barely noticeable. The meat is sparing but rich in flavor, a dish that seems unappealing at first glance but reveals harmony upon tasting.
The fourth course, "Prawn Wonton"—my own naming—is actually an elevated prawn dumpling. With a Hong Kong-style dumpling wrapper encasing generous shrimp filling, adorned with gold leaf and evoking a Macanese style, the sauce pulls it back into the realm of French cuisine with a rich butter sauce. Overall, the restaurant's sauces tend to be on the salty side, but within my acceptable range and suitable for pairing with bread.
The fifth course, "Mustard Sashimi," another name of my own devising, follows the prawn wonton with another smile-inducing dish. The pale green sauce has a light mustard flavor, sprinkled with sesame seeds. Surprisingly elegant, the salmon is beautifully prepared. This ordinary pairing of sashimi and mustard feels entirely in place here, allowing even someone who typically dislikes s
ashimi, like me, to enjoy it thoroughly. That's skill.
As a palate cleanser, "Champagne Caviar," is quintessentially French, with each bite exuding the pure taste of champagne, complementing the caviar and oozing French charm. This was not part of my original order, but the restaurant served it anyway. I protested, "I didn't order this," to which the waiter confidently replied, "This is a gift from the chef, I will remove it if you wish." However, this dish, which I had initially overlooked, turned out to be a highlight of the evening, bringing the feeling of bliss to a peak. A must-order!
The main course, "Black Truffle Pigeonneau," features a young squab paired with pigeon jus, pigeon liver, and toasted crisps. The squab, cooked to a perfect medium-rare, is very tender and slightly gamey. The black truffle mashed potatoes are exceptionally fragrant and well-integrated, perhaps due to the superior quality of French black truffles.
For cheese, "Hot Cheese Soufflé" topped with summer truffle crumbs. The soufflé, bubbly in texture, blends two strong flavors harmoniously, reminiscent of eating white truffles.
As another palate cleanser, "Various Herb Sorbet," with green grass, mint, basil, and lemon flavors, offers a refreshing interlude.
The first dessert, "Peach," layers sweet and tangy peach flesh neatly, topped with peach juice and a crispy layer.
The second dessert, a coffee ice cream, provides a subtle, weighty finish, balancing the meal perfectly.
Such a multitude of dishes, each understandable by the guests without need for explanation. If you have to talk at length for guests to appreciate your dish, it's akin to failure. The best dishes convey not just "deliciousness," but an emotion.
A restaurant that is itself a grand scene, scores highly on every dimension, earns top honors without arrogance, is filled with French historicity yet doesn't neglect the East, and is surprisingly affordable (with an average set menu price below 400 euros) leaves little room for criticism and epitomizes the stature of a world-class restaurant.
Thank you for such an unforgettable and deeply moving evening. Looking back, it feels like such a blessing. For the first time in many years, I'm awarding a full five stars.
