YU ZhI Lan
Yuzhilan in Chengdu stands as one of China’s top-tier classical aesthetic restaurants, though its setting is surprisingly simple, especially the restrooms which are rather subpar. Yet, the table is set with expensive ingredients that other high-end restaurants often sell for 1000-1500 RMB per 20-head abalone per person. At Yulan Magnolia, a 2000 RMB per person menu not only includes premium abalone but is replete with luxurious ingredients like fish maw, sea cucumber, lobster, bird’s nest, and shark fin. It’s a high-value deal among Michelin-starred establishments in China when it comes to ingredient quality at this price point.
The tableware is exquisite, particularly the Sichuan embroidery in the Zan box, which is quite delicate. The other utensils also embody an ink painting style, resonating with the aesthetic preferences of the older generation of foodies. For instance, the vessel for the hot and sour sea cucumber soup features a standing lion on the lid, while the bowl is adorned with various patterns symbolizing good fortune and wealth. Chef Lan is practically the super spokesperson for the restaurant. His eyes light up as he talks about his dishes and his own plates (having spent a year learning porcelain making), exuding a hands-on and benevolent vibe that’s very endearing. It reminds me of a visit to Tai’an Door in Shanghai last year, which was so disappointing that I left full of complaints. Yet, when the chef saw me off with a smile, I couldn’t bring myself to utter a single criticism and could only thank him for the experience.
Back to the topic, I believe that classical aesthetic restaurants in China should adhere to three key thematic logics: banquet logic, drunkenness logic, and Feng Shui logic.
The banquet logic emphasizes privacy, presentable ingredients that can hold their own in a social setting, and seeks the 'greatest common divisor' in taste, avoiding dishes that are inelegant to consume.
The drunkenness logic is about having some food to line the stomach before drinking, with the main courses placed upfront so they’re not forgotten after too much alcohol.
The Feng Shui logic relates to the choice of location, layout, arrangement of objects, and the auspicious symbolism in the dishes and tableware.
From these perspectives, Yulan Magnolia in Chengdu can be considered one of China’s premier classical aesthetic restaurants. If I were to compare Yulan Magnolia to other establishments in China’s culinary scene, two come to mind:
A. Touzao (Head Stove)
B. Fu He Hui
Touzao caters to young, affluent diners with chefs who, despite their extensive experience, are transitioning from the kitchen to the counter, thus treading carefully and generously sharing insights. The restaurant retains a Japanese aesthetic from its decor to its utensils. With a similar 2000 RMB price point and due to higher labor and management costs, the ingredients can’t match Yulan Magnolia's, but it doesn’t lose in finesse.
Fu He Hui, I believe, is also one of China’s top-tier classical aesthetic restaurants and one where “aesthetic is the core competitive strength.” Faith in their creations and making their own tableware, they follow a different aesthetic path due to vegetarian cuisine, resulting in a lower per-person cost. Compared to Yulan Magnolia in Chengdu, Fu He Hui has a grander, more inclusive approach, indicative of Shanghai style, whereas Yulan Magnolia leans towards a more traditional and demure inland aesthetic.
A brief record of the main dishes that day:
1. The Sichuan embroidery Zan box. It contained eight small dishes: lily bulbs, wild mushrooms, century eggs, wood ear mushrooms, dried bamboo shoots, beef, cashew nuts, and chicken feet. The sauce-coated cashew nuts were the highlight.
2. Lobster with colorful noodles. Four whole small green lobsters, quite intact and plump, were served with Kung Pao sauce. However, the lobster seemed to have been refrigerated, leading to a peculiar taste.
3. Matsutake with golden thread noodles. A signature dish of the restaurant. The noodles were very fine, and Chef Lan shared that they must be made with expensive, old hens, the kind that costs at least 30/40 RMB per pound. However, I think I could replicate this dish at home after making chicken broth, substituting the noodles with Japanese Sun Willow plain noodles.
4. Caviar two ways. Caviar from Dujiangyan served with green peas and a shrimp frozen cake. The latter had a very concentrated shrimp flavor, which might be appealing to those who enjoy shrimp paste, but I found it too overpowering and somewhat unbearable.
5. Mushroom-flavored fish maw. It was average; the texture of the fish maw couldn't match that of Jing Xi Hui.
6. Pan-fried morel mushrooms
and fatty beef. The beef was M9 from Australia, paired with chili powder and Sichuan pepper powder. The morels were well-fried, crispy, and fragrant.
7. Premium abalone. The highlight of the evening lived up to expectations, tender and delicate.
8. Sour and spicy sea cucumber. The transition of taste was well-managed, with the previous dishes being quite heavy and using sour and spicy flavors to reawaken the taste buds. The acidity was particularly refreshing.
9. Douban eel. It matched the signature dish from Touzao, with the plate being heated to a very hot temperature, reflecting attention to detail. The eel had a sufficient gelatinous texture, and the douban flavor was aromatic.
Returning to the main topic, I think Yulan Magnolia can be labeled as one of China's top classical aesthetic restaurants. If I were to find comparable establishments in China's culinary world, I would consider the following two: A. Touzao B. Fu He Hui.
Touzao is a restaurant for young, affluent diners, with chefs who, despite their rich experience, are currently transitioning from the kitchen to the front of the house, thus displaying a more cautious and generous attitude. They adhere to a Japanese aesthetic in their decoration and utensils. Similarly priced at 2000 RMB, due to higher labor and management costs, Touzao may not match Yulan Magnolia in terms of ingredients, but it does not lose in refinement.
Fu He Hui, I believe, is likewise among China's top classical aesthetic restaurants and can be considered a restaurant where "aesthetic is the core competitive edge." They also believe in their creations, producing their own dinnerware. As a vegetarian establishment, the average cost per person is lower, but compared to Yulan Magnolia in Chengdu, Fu He Hui takes a different aesthetic path. It has a broader and more inclusive style, typical of Shanghai, whereas Yulan Magnolia reflects a more traditional, reserved inland aesthetic.
A simple record of the main dishes from the day:
1. Sichuan embroidery Zan box containing eight small dishes: lilies, wild mushrooms, century eggs, wood ear mushrooms, dried bamboo shoots, beef, cashews, and chicken feet. The sauce-coated cashews were particularly good.
2. Baby lobster with multicolored noodles. This dish used the meat from four small green lobsters, quite intact and plump, served with Kung Pao sauce. However, the meat seemed to have been refrigerated, giving it an off taste.
3. Matsutake mushroom with golden thread noodles. A flagship dish, with noodles extremely fine, Chef Lan revealed that they must be made with expensive old chicken broth, using chickens that cost at least 30/40 RMB per pound. However, I could replicate this at home with Japanese Sun Willow plain noodles after making chicken broth.
4. Caviar served two ways. Caviar from Dujiangyan was paired with green peas and a shrimp frozen cake. The latter had a strong shrimp flavor that might be appreciated by those who like shrimp paste, but I found it too intense.
5. Mushroom-flavored fish maw. It was just average, not quite reaching the level of Jing Xi Hui.
6. Pan-fried morel mushrooms and wagyu beef. The beef was M9 grade from Australia, accompanied by chili and Sichuan pepper powder. The morels were well-fried, crispy on the outside, and aromatic.
7. Premium abalone. The highlight of the night, it met the expectations with its tender and delicate texture.
8. Hot and sour sea cucumber. The sequence of flavors was well-executed, transitioning from heavier dishes to this palate-cleansing one with its clear acidity.
9. Douban eel. Comparable to Touzao's signature dish, the eel was served on a plate heated to a very hot temperature, showing attention to detail. The eel had a sufficient gelatinous texture, and the douban flavor was fragrant.
