8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA SH
Bombana SH, in my view, embodies the essence of the city's old concession and comprador vibes like no other. Nestled in a historic street, near the Bund yet secluded, with an old-fashioned elevator, a somewhat worn decor, a sophisticated tableware aesthetic, and a classic yet restrained view from the terrace. There's a comforting warmth to slipping back into a coat warmed from storage.
The key allure is the feeling of seclusion this place offers. The restrained view means you are not overwhelmed by the ambitious vibrancy of Lujiazui, reflected in a vast expanse of glass, nor do you feel the illusion of "the world at my feet" as you might when looking down from a skyscraper. At Bombana, the chaos of the world doesn't concern me, and its opulence is just a corner by my window. I am an outsider to the chaos and opulence, yet a conduit connecting both. I could be hidden away in a small building, indifferent to the change of seasons, where my shadow intersects with that of my counterpart from 100 years ago in the same space.
In such a building, to eat a casual meal without care, not even opting for white truffles—because what's the point if the world is on the brink of collapse? I should feel ashamed for such oblivious simplicity.
During this meal, I ate absentmindedly, and the restaurant served in kind. The dishes were standard fare; the beef was not cooked to the right degree, and the red prawns were of average quality. Classic combinations, no highlights, but no disasters either. The service lacked attention to detail; bread was served without offering a wet towel, water refills were slow, the temperature off, and the tea turned bitter. The preferential treatment for regulars was too apparent, bordering on indifference towards new guests. Overall, despite its top-tier branding, both the cuisine and service were second-tier (and I would rate Lu's in Shanghai as third-tier). However, regarding tableware, it's probably the most exquisite among the western restaurants here, featuring a considerable amount of Porthault. It's rare to find a restaurant that warms your coat in storage. Leaving with the gentle warmth of my clothes on a chilly, rainy day, it felt like a decent meal had been had.Bombana SH, in my view, embodies the essence of the city's old concession and comprador vibes like no other. Nestled in a historic street, near the Bund yet secluded, with an old-fashioned elevator, a somewhat worn decor, a sophisticated tableware aesthetic, and a classic yet restrained view from the terrace. There's a comforting warmth to slipping back into a coat warmed from storage.
