FuheHui

The Fu series, likely the most suitable in Shanghai for hosting European guests, offers a budget-friendly option at 1088 and a more extravagant one at 1015, with Fu He Hui being the choice for culturally savvy patrons. Hosting guests from Europe, these unique, standalone restaurants, located in century-old affluent neighborhoods, provide an atmosphere rich in history and family heritage, setting the stage for unique storytelling.

Fu He Hui itself can be considered one of the top choices in Shanghai's thousand-yuan dining category, or "the choice among the limited options." Comparable to the Loro Piana brand in luxury, it's not necessarily more expensive than others but imparts a sense of superiority to many of its patrons, a feeling of being at the top of the disdain chain.

The new summer menu has its hits and misses. I've always asserted that Fu He Hui should focus on being traditional, established, and Eastern rather than a pseudo-fusion or a clumsy mix of East and West. If Fu He Hui's chefs were to cook Western cuisine, they'd likely be second-rate at best, as their sauces, powdering, and slicing lack distinct flavors, resulting in vague and bland tastes reminiscent of apprentices. Thus, the Western-style dishes are the weakest part of the menu.

However, there are commendable aspects, showing the chef's attempts at self-improvement. Compared to my last visit in March 2022, this season's menu has improved in flavor distribution. It doesn't rely solely on fragrance and sweetness but starts with an unexpected spiciness, transitions into a blend of mild sourness, bitterness, and sweetness, and then moves into aromatic, salty, and rich flavors, ending with liquid nitrogen cooling. The first half, culminating in the jackfruit, is the highlight, while the later dishes lack a clear flavor progression.

In terms of texture, there's a rhythm too: the crispness of melons, rice, beans, and tea powder; the moisture of ridge gourd, snake gourd, and tofu; and the stickiness of century egg tofu, yam bean, and eggplant. A mix of crisp, moist, and sticky textures.

Now, to the dishes:

The opening snack, 'Century Egg Tofu', made with tofu in a fat-like state, sprinkled with green onion powder, with a tofu skin shell, offering a crispy effect. Hidden beneath the tofu is preserved mustard, adding a mysterious salty and slightly spicy touch. Bold for an opener.

The first dish, 'Bitter Melon', after a small surprise, returns to a gentle and cool theme. Pineapple flesh sandwiched between cucumber and bitter melon, doused in a green sauce made of cucumber peel and olive oil, also promoting the concept of reducing food waste. However, the green sauce is optional; it's there more for the story than flavor. The self-sustainable concept seems a bit forced, as the environmentally friendly intention is obvious.

The second dish, 'Lotus Root', has a fried rice-like texture with a filling of water chestnut, lotus root, and yam bean, resembling taro paste. A classic vegetarian dish resembling Cantonese cuisine.

The third dish, 'Pu Gua' from Huaian, Jiangsu, also known as Anti-Golden Vegetable, resembles cabbage on the outside and lotus root inside but is not crispy; it's more like winter melon with a moist texture. Classic Fu He Hui style with bamboo fungus. The soup base is an improvement, with a blend of loofah, mushrooms, etc., avoiding a monotonous vegetarian soup taste.

The fourth dish, 'Eggplant', uses so-called Kunlun Mountain snow-fed sticky eggplant, which indeed has a great texture without the usual fibrous feel. Flavored with Puning bean paste, it's more aromatic than meat. Topped with Yunnan peas, the crispiness contrasts the stickiness of the eggplant, masking the vegetable taste I dislike. The MVP of this meal.

The fifth dish, 'Jackfruit', uses jackfruit for the shell and sticky salted egg yolk dumplings inside, similar to Taizhou fried glutinous rice balls. The salted egg yolk filling is mediocre and vague in flavor. Liquid nitrogen-frozen flower petals are sprinkled on top for a rich aroma. But why is liquid nitrogen everywhere these days, like the foam trend from five years ago?

The sixth dish, 'Gac Fruit', is a classic tree tomato sour soup with Litsea oil, but just a hint, with a weak presence. Gac fruit wrapped around yellow ear mushroom gives a crab-like flavor, but the texture of gourds, including Pu Gua, feels overused today.

The seventh dish, 'Bamboo Shoot', presents smoked dry bamboo shoot tips as mountains, asparagus sauce as water, and pagoda and ice plants as trees, resembling a Chinese landscape painting, but oddly reminiscent of Japanese rock gardens. The bamboo shoot tip is

bland, not crispy, aromatic, or tender, lacking any juice – missing all the desirable bamboo shoot qualities. The asparagus sauce and pistachio powder are indistinct in flavor. A disappointing dish.

The eighth dish, 'Tofu Flower', is well-intentioned but not to my taste. Inaniwa udon with homemade soybean tofu (indeed rich in bean flavor), with chicken mushrooms hidden underneath. This dish is flavorful but unsightly, especially after stirring – greasy and slimy, with a heavy oil and sauce feel, making one queasy.

The ninth dish, 'Tragacanth Gum', with verbena-infused crispy peach and passion fruit juice, topped with tragacanth gum, is a typical Western-style, unremarkable dessert, mainly serving as a palate cleanser.

The tenth dish, 'Lei Cha', appeared over a year ago but now as a dessert, with matcha pudding underneath. Not bad.

The post-meal dessert, 'West Lake Lotus', is indeed beautiful, but the taste is not commendable. Making puff pastry without animal oil is naturally challenging.

Overall, I suggest a clearer theme for the menu, like the "Only This Green" theme used before. A clear theme helps patrons quickly promote the new menu, so having a theme, even if made up, is better than none. Additionally, nut elements could be more prominent, like pistachio, pine nuts, walnuts, almonds, macadamia, etc. Their aroma and crunch could enhance the vegetarian menu. Also, either hire a better Western chef or use less Western technique.

Fu He Hui's competitive edge also lies in its long-standing "human" aspect. Many veteran front-of-house staff exude a content and unhurried demeanor, providing heartfelt service with rich experience. Their presence allows the rare qualities of Fu He Hui to be steadily passed down.