Caprice

Caprice possesses a "taste of time," as if its cuisine has remained stagnant for a decade, perhaps burdened by its legacy to the point where innovation is no longer necessary. It encapsulates a bygone era of Hong Kong's high-end dining scene's peak glory, along with the culinary memories of that time, sealed within its walls.

As a long-established French restaurant in Hong Kong with several years of Michelin three-star recognition, I had already set my expectations low before visiting. However, dining here felt like a letdown beyond anticipation. Aside from the saffron sauce paired fresh fish which was somewhat palatable, I could not bring myself to have more than three bites of any dish. Dining here was torturous, with outdated dishes, coarse seasoning, and an aesthetic stuck in the past. The lengthy intervals between courses were spent in utter boredom.

With age, I've become more forgiving and understanding toward restaurants compared to my more critical younger years. I get it: Caprice is just stuck in time, reminiscent of my first French dining experience at Beijing's Fulou, a place I've dared not revisit to avoid shattering the idyllic memories of my teenage years. Back then, I was enchanted by the long tree-lined avenues, the serene villa, the cool air that greeted me upon opening the heavy door, the exquisite dishes, the angelically decorated restroom, and the joy brought by the macarons given as a farewell gesture. But what I cherished in my teens feels worlds apart in my twenties. Even if I could travel back to that moment with the perspective and mindset of my twenties, I doubt I could find the same joy in Fulou. It, too, might remain unchanged, catering to a new generation of teenagers or those in their thirties seeking to revisit their past, but I am no longer among that clientele.

Perhaps Caprice is similar. For middle-aged guests, the flavors of a decade ago, despite their coarseness, hold elements of nostalgia. For me, not yet of the age to reminisce about my youth and without significant memories tied to this place, I find the "old-fashioned" and "outdated" aspects tiresome.

But, is "established" necessarily synonymous with "outdated"? At Caprice, I believe it is, yet in Europe, many longstanding Michelin three-star restaurants manage to avoid feeling dated, often introducing new classics and experiences. I find Caprice's current stance somewhat regrettable.